The following are the two types of inspections that you will be requesting.

Electrical Rough In Inspection - This is the inspection that is done after all wire and boxes have been installed and all wiring connections made up in the boxes, before the installation of any insulation or building materials that cover the wiring.

Electrical Final Inspection - This is the inspection that is done once all of the electrical devices have been installed and after the wiring has been checked for accuracy and functionality by the homeowner.

These inspections will be done after you have completed the proper phase of the installation and make a formal request for inspection through the inspection request line 402-727-2638. Inspection requests can be made between 8:00 am and 3:30 pm and can normally be done that same day. When calling in the inspection please give the following information:

1. Your address

2. Your permit number

3. What type of inspection you are requesting. (Electrical Rough In, or Final)

4. The date you want the inspection.

5. Any special instructions for the inspectors. (Location of a hidden key, door access

code, phone number of person to contact for access etc.)

There are code mandates from the 2008 National Electrical Code for where you must install receptacles, lights and switches in all of the rooms in a house. Some of these requirements are listed below.

1. Receptacles can be placed no farther apart than 12 feet on any unbroken length of wall.

2. Receptacles must be installed within 6 feet of any opening in a wall. (Such as doorways, builtins, fireplaces etc.)

3. All receptacles installed inside or outside a house must be of the “tamper resistant” type. Receptacles installed outdoors shall also be of the “weather-resistant type”.

4. Every room must have at least one light that is controlled by a switch located by the door that is usually used to enter the room.

5. Kitchen counter tops must have receptacles within two feet of the end of the counter and within two feet of the sink or range and not more than four feet apart. All kitchen counter receptacles must be fed by a minimum 20 amp branch circuit, and there can be no less than two total circuits that feed these outlets.

6. All receptacles installed in bathrooms, kitchen counters, outdoors, garages, and in unfinished basements must be protected by ground fault circuit interrupters that are “tamper resistant”

7. Garbage disposals, dishwashers, trash compactors, range hoods under certain conditions, space saver microwaves, etc. can all be cord and plug connected, as long as it is done in compliance with the code. All of these items are required to be on their own circuits.

8. Bathroom plugs must be fed from a 20 ampere rated circuit that only feeds bathroom outlets. The bathroom sink must have a receptacle installed within three feet of the edge of the sink.

9. All 120-volt, single phase, 15- and 20-ampere branch circuits supplying lighting, receptacle, and smoke alarm outlets installed in dwelling unit family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sunrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, or similar rooms or areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter, combination-type, installed to provide protection of the branch circuit.

10. Here are some common romex sizes and the maximum size circuit breaker allowed:

14-2 romex protected by 15 ampere circuit breaker

12-2 romex protected by 20 ampere circuit breaker

10-2 romex protected by 30 ampere circuit breaker 

11. Every story, bedroom, hallway leading to a bedroom, and ceiling heights that change more than 2 feet in elevation shall have a 120 volt, battery backup smoke detector installed and interconnected with one another so when one sounds an alarm they all sound the alarm.      

There are codes that dictate how electrical wiring is installed within the walls before the insulation and drywall are installed. Some of these codes are listed below.

1. Romex (nm cable) is typically ran through bored holes in the framing members. The bored holes for the wiring must be at least 1 1/4 inches from the face of the nailing surface of the stud. If you cannot drill the holes so that they are at least 1 1/4 inches back from the face, then a 1/16 inch metal plate must be installed at the face of the stud so that the metal plate will protect the wires from nails or screws that might be used for the installation of drywall, pictures, drapes, or wall hangings that require fasteners to be installed later.

2. The boxes used for the wiring and the installation of switches, receptacles, and light fixtures are all marked with a maximum number of wires that can be installed. You need to be sure to not put more wires in the box then what it is rated for, and you should also make sure that the box is deep enough if you are installing a large body device such as a GFCI receptacle or a lighting dimmer.

3. Receptacles can have only one “black”, one “white”, and one “ground” wire attached to them. If you have more than one each of these wires in a box then they must be connected together with a wingnut and a “pigtail” wire that is used to connect to the device.

4. Romex MUST be stapled within 4 inches of every box, and within 48 inches after that.

5. Romex run through an attic must be ran in a fashion that the ceiling framing will protect the wires from anyone that may walk or crawl through the attic from stepping on or damaging the wire with their knees. If the framing is not in a fashion that this can be done, “runner” boards may be installed to protect the wires.

6. Lighting fixtures, fans, and metal boxes that have ½ inch knock outs for the wiring to be installed in them, must have a “romex” connector installed where the wire enters these knock outs. Also make sure that boxes used for ceiling fans are listed and rated for that use.

Failure to follow the above guidelines will result in more than one inspection of your project and could cost you $50 for every extra trip the inspector must make to your house. So please do your best to follow all of the above rules.

Keep in mind that all of the rules that govern electrical wiring could not be placed in this brochure. If you have items that you are attempting to install and they are not covered here, we recommend that you consult your local library or the internet to find out more. Once you have exhausted all resources available to you but you still are not sure how to install your equipment contact the electrical inspector. If he can explain what you need to know over the phone in a timely fashion then he will try to help you through your installation. If your questions become too involved the electrical inspector may recommend that you hire an Electrical Contractor to either install the wiring for you, or to assist you in your installation.